Two unique models that might attract a few hardy souls willing to risk time, treasure and sweat.

Li'l Yogi is from (I think....Joe) the NFFS newsletter of unknown date. Although it is referred to as "1/3 Electric Scale of 1945 original," it is probably not eligible for FAC competition in the Old Time Gas Replica class because the construction is obviously not that of a full-size endurance model with a wingspan of about 40 inches. It is more of an indoor model as the plan is now presented; however, it could probably do well outdoors on a calm day. A very interesting design; please be sure to send us the results if you build it. This plan comes to us by way of the NFFS newsletter. It was originally taken from the CIA Informer, the newsletter of the Central Indiana Aeromodelers. The model is an electric-powered miniature of Jerry Stoloff's 1945 design (originally kitted by Eagle Models) and uses Kenway's little KR-1D direct drive electric power unit. Go to Plan

Rotator IV comes to us by way of The Thumb Print, newsletter of Thermal Thumbers of Metro Atlanta, David Mills, editor. Taken from September 1940 Aeromodeller. That date tells us the magazine was being published at the height of the Battle of Britain, enduring nightly visits from the Luftwaffe. It is a tribute to our UK friends that they were gutsy enough to pursue their hobby in spite of the dangers they faced. True, there are a couple of glaring errors in the plan, but heck, they got it together with mostly professional quality. As with Li'l Yogi above, please do send us full info on the results if you build this memorable bird from the past. Go to Plan

The Rotor: This is the most important part of the machine. The plan shows the view from beneath in plan view and from the root end in end view. The rotor rotates clockwise when viewed from above. The sub-spars, which are glued to spars of blade, are inserted in the slots in rotor head, and small pins retain blades, preventing them from flying out while rotating. The easiest method of putting washout into blades is to build flat, cover with tissue, slope underside, pin down at corners A, B, and C before dope has tightened, push a piece of 1/4" balsa under corner D, then dope top and leave to thoroughly tighten. When dry it will be found that washout is right. (WS editor: There is a contradiction in these instructions as originally written in that the thickness of the balsa block differs between the sketch accompanying the plan and these printed instructions. We have chosen the sketch version, but trimming might suggest a smaller amount of washout.)

Fuselage: Standard construction. We have deleted a note that calls for a 10-inch prop and 24 strands of 1/4" rubber, an impossible power source for the 10-inch long fuselage. Suggestion: start with four strands of 1/8" rubber and a 6-inch plastic prop.

Fin: Steam to shape 1/16" square birch (or basswood, bamboo, or balsa laminations). Push front top end into decking piece and glue. Glue to sternpost and appropriate bottom strut. The 1/32" sheet rudder is then fixed with passe-partout binding (Joe: Whatsit? Use soft wire) to sternpost. Fin is covered on one side only and not doped.

Tailplane: Trimming tabs of 1/32" sheet are hinged the same way as rudder. Cover one side only. Do not dope.

Assembling and Testing: Slip rotor head on to pylon, solder on cup washer to keep it on. Insert sub-spar in rotor head and fix in pins. Place pylon over fuselage; put rubber bands over hooks on one side; draw under fuselage and loop over hooks on opposite side. Slip tailplane through the opening on fuselage and fix with rubber bands. Push tubes on top of chassis on to protruding ends of wire chassis saddle at bottom of fuselage. Insert motor and fix nose-piece and propeller. Wind up motor about 200 turns. Stick a large pin in noseblock to prevent propeller turning. Tie a piece of thread to top of pylon and support machine by thread. Supported like this it should hang nose down to the same amount as there is back tilt to rotor. That is, the rotor (not the machine) should balance even. When it does so, remove pin from nose-piece and, holding propeller with one hand, hold up machine into wind until rotor is revolving, then release propeller and launch (gently or sharply, depending on strength of wind). Machine should fly forward and downward on even keel. If it does so, gradually increase turns to maximum. NOTE: This machine does not twirl around at end of flight.