Laird Solution... this model came before the well-known "Super Solution." The "Super" version was flown very successfully as a racer by Jimmy Doolittle. Our plan for the No-Cal is by K. Sharbonda and comes to us through Dave Livesay. Our thanks go to both. The picture on the cover is of Chris Parent's model, taken from "Mike's flying scale model pages, www.ffscale.co.uk. With 21" wingspan, Chris says it's a bit heavy at 75 grams without rubber but very stable, "No spiral at all with many different trim set-ups." Flight times are in the "mid 40s". It's his own design. Our No-Cal is not as exquisite but offers hope to those who yearn for simplicity and good flying characteristics. Let's watch those balsa chips fly! Go to Plan

Webby is from April 1945 Air Trails Pictorial, sent to us by Bob Spink. We thank the author, James McCrea, wherever he might be, and Bob, who also provided the "Duck" by Louis Garami, which appeared in May 2009 Windy Sock. Bob says Webby was a better flyer than the Duck. The article calls for eight strands of 3/16" rubber, realistic for this 28"-wingspan model that must break loose from the surface tension of the water in ROG mode. That much power is common for endurance models but rather intimidates old scale guys like ye editor, who wonders how Webby would behave at 21" wingspan and eight strands of 1/8" rubber. Try it, someone?

For the fellows who want to experiment and do something really different, there is the alternative of leaving the good old terra firma and hying themselves to the water. Hydroflying presents more unknowns and variables than any other phase of aeromodeling. This fact in itself adds tremendous incentive to the keen modeler. Hydros, or flying boats, have always been designed on the premise that "if it floated it would take off." The large water drag of the hull, plus the air drag of the machine as a whole, prevented good "planing," so that the model taxied in circles and frequently nosed up without taking off. And if the hull was improperly shaped, this condition was worse.

Webby was finally adopted because its long hull gave greater water stability. It was designed to give low air and water drag. It is light, yet strong enough to provide longitudinal stability on the water and still permit the model to rise on the rear step for planing. The wide beam makes for a smaller draught, and the use of a flared bottom and a sharp chine permits efficient planing - avoiding a lot of waves and spray. Another advantage of this type of hull is that every section between bulkheads comprises a watertight compartment; thus, any punctures that may occur when planing or flying will not prove very disastrous. In many cases, flying can be continued, despite damage, during the day, and the repair made when you are back in your workshop. The efficiency of this type of hull and complete design was proven on the very first water test for stability. Placed on the water about seven feet from the shore and headed toward the shoreline, the model was released with only about 26 turns in the water. It planed along the water and ran about four feet up on the beach. Subsequent flights showed good duration.

Construction: Crutch-type construction simplifies the hull and speeds up building. Note that there is both an upper and lower crutch. Lay out the lower crutch on the plans. While this is drying, cut out all upper formers that are mounted on this crutch and glue them in place. When dry, remove from board and follow the same procedure with the upper crutch, attaching all upper formers in place. While this is drying, glue all keel formers in place on the lower crutch. Insert 1/16" x 3/16" cabin and wing support in formers F-4 and F-5. Be sure to leave this support projecting from former F-4 as shown on the plans. Insert the 1/16" x 5/16" crosspiece between the extended ends of the cabin support.

Next, glue in place the 1/8" square diagonal that extends from F-3 to crosspieces on cabin. When the upper crutch is dry, insert front end of this crutch into the notches in former F-5 and set balance of crutch into place in the formers attached to the lower crutch. Be sure, when gluing the fuselage together, to keep perfect alignment between the upper and lower sections. Now glue the lower formers in place on the upper crutch and insert the 1/16" sheet keel in place. When this is dry, glue in former K-7A. Butt-joint this former against K-7. The upper keel of 1/16" sheet is now glued in place and formers F-11, F-12, and F-13 are inserted on the upper keel. F-13 rests on the top of the cabin crosspiece. When dry, insert 1/16" sheet keel in lower half of F-11, F-12, and F-13.

The hull keels of 1/16" sheet are now glued and the 3/32" sq. planking support for the rear step is butt-jointed to the rear of F-5. Be sure position and angle are the same as on the plans. The wheel-well former of 3/16" medium hard sheet is now cut out and the back of the well is covered with 1/16" sheet before the wheel-well is glued in place on former F-5. The 3/32" sq. stringers are inserted in the keel formers; these stringers are to support the planking between the stations on the hull. Note that stringers are inserted into the wheel-well former.

The nose block of soft balsa is formed to match the curve of the chine with a slight inverted curve at the end of the nose block. The axle mount and landing gear bearing are now glued in place and the fuselage is ready for planking. The bottom of the hull is planked with 1/16" sheet. Be sure to allow this planking to extend about 1/16" beyond the edge of the formers; this will support and permit the 1/32" side sheeting to butt-joint against this planking and form a perfect seal against seepage of water into the hull. Use the pattern on plans to form the planking (which extends from F-1 to F-4 and round the wheel well) for the upper half of the fuselage. Cut out the tail cradle formers of 1/16" sheet and glue in place on top of upper crutch and fill in the space between these supports with 1/8" scrap balsa. The 1/16" x 1/8" tail cradle longerons are now glued, completing the fuselage construction.

Wing, stabilizer, and rudder sections are of the usual design and do not require any explanation. Construction views explain the procedure for fabricating the landing gear. The mounting of the wing and wing tip floats is self-explanatory.

The wing-tip floats are extremely simply to build. Just cut out a piece of 1/32" sheet to pattern outline on the plans, brush two coats of dope on only one side of the wood, and allow the dope to dry. When dry, the wood will have curled up to the approximately shape of the pontoon. Now insert the rear bulkhead, pulling the wood into the final shape of the float. When completely dry, plank the bottom of the float with 1/32" sheet.

Before covering the fuselage, be sure to give all structures at least two coats of dope as a protection against possible leaks. The original model was covered with tissue, but rubber-model Silkspan would be better because you can apply this type of covering while wet, thus making a much simpler job of covering the curves on the fuselage. If you uses Silkspan, be sure to give the covering on the fuselage at least five or six coats of dope to eliminate the possibility of the covering's becoming porous.

Flying: The model should balance midway between formers F-4 and F-5A. Before power flights, test-glide the model. If it is nose-heavy add weight to the tail and if it stalls add weight to the nose. The original model did not require any weight adjustments. When test-gliding be sure to use a field with tall grass to prevent damage to the hull. Try test flights with a few turns in the motor, and make any necessary adjustments in the thrust line. All test flights should be hand-launched. Do not try any ROWs until the model has been thoroughly tested and adjusted. Perfect take-offs have been achieved using eight strands of 3/16" rubber. The motor hooks, ball bearings, and all metal fittings should be lubricated to prevent any corrosion from contact with the water. A rubber lube conssiting of glycerine and green soap should be applied to the rubber permitting a great capacity for winding.

Don't forget your boots! Go to Plan